Gulmarg’s reputation is built almost entirely around skiing, and most of what gets written about the place assumes you are there for the slopes. I am not a skier and have no plans to become one, and I still found enough in Gulmarg to fill several genuinely satisfying days. The gondola, the snow itself, and the simple pleasure of being in a quiet mountain town in winter turned out to be more than enough reason to go.
Gondola Ride – Main Attraction of Gulmarg
Two Stages, Two Very Different Experiences
The Gulmarg Gondola operates in two stages, and understanding the difference between them matters if you are not skiing. The first stage takes you up to Kongdoori at approximately 8,500 feet, with views across the Gulmarg meadow and the surrounding pine forest.
The second stage continues up to Apharwat Peak at over 13,000 feet, and this is where the experience changes considerably. The air is thinner, the cold sharper, and the views stretch out across a genuinely dramatic stretch of the Pir Panjal range.
Booking and Timing
Tickets for the gondola are sold in stages, and the second stage in particular sells out quickly during peak winter months. Arriving early, ideally by 8 am, gives you the best chance of getting a slot without a long wait.
The weather at the upper station can close the second stage with little notice. Therefore, building some flexibility into your schedule for this is worth doing rather than treating it as guaranteed.
What to Wear
The temperature difference between the base and Apharwat Peak is substantial, often a drop of ten degrees or more. Renting proper snow gear, available at several shops near the gondola base station, is worth doing even if you only plan to walk around at the top rather than ski.
Snow Walks Away From the Slopes in Gulmarg
The Meadow Itself
Gulmarg means meadow of flowers, and in summer, that name makes more sense. In winter, the same meadow becomes a wide stretch of snow that is excellent for walking, sledging, or simply sitting and taking in the surrounding peaks. This area sees far less crowding than the gondola queues and is a good place to spend an unhurried hour without needing any particular plan.
Walking Towards Khilanmarg
Khilanmarg, a short distance from the main gondola base, is reachable on foot through the snow with proper boots, or by pony if you prefer not to walk the full stretch. The walk itself, through snow-laden pine forest with occasional clearings opening onto wider mountain views, is one of the more peaceful things to do in Gulmarg outside the main ski areas.
St Mary’s Church
A quieter stop, the small stone church near the golf course area dates to the British colonial period and sits attractively against the snow in winter. It receives a fraction of the footfall the gondola does, making it a good option for a calmer half hour.
Food and Warming Up in Gulmarg
Gulmarg’s food options are limited compared to larger Kashmiri towns, but several small restaurants near the main market serve Kashmiri staples. Kahwa, the traditional Kashmiri tea with saffron and almonds, is the most welcome thing you can hold in your hands after coming down from Apharwat Peak.
Where to Stay in Gulmarg?
There are hotels in Gulmarg ranging from larger properties near the golf course area to smaller, more intimate guesthouses closer to the gondola base. Staying close to the gondola base station is the more practical choice if your main interest is the cable car and the snow walks around Kongdoori and Khilanmarg, since it cuts down on the local transport needed each morning.
Several properties lean into the relaxed mountain lodge style, with wood interiors, fireplaces, and views directly onto the snow, and this style of stay suits Gulmarg’s winter character particularly well. Booking ahead by several weeks during the peak winter months of December through February is sensible, since the town’s capacity is limited and demand from skiers and non-skiers alike is high through this period.
What I Would Tell a Fellow Non-Skier
Do not let the skiing reputation put you off. The gondola alone justifies the trip, the snow walks around the meadow and towards Khilanmarg offer a genuinely peaceful alternative to the slopes.
A few days spent simply being in the cold mountain air, with good food and a warm room to return to, is a satisfying way to spend time here, regardless of whether you ever put on a pair of skis.
